What's in this Issue:

#2 Lynne's Backyard Gardening Tips

#3 New Gardening Product of-the-Month

#4 Odd & Strange Gardening News

#5 Great Plant of the Month

#6 Invasive Plant of-the-Month

#7 Garden Pest of-the-Month

#8 Plant Disease

#9 Feedback - Anonymous

Grafting Trees

Reasons to Graft:

Not all plants can be grafted. Basically, only plants that are closely related botanically form a good graft union. Some of the reasons for grafting include:

* Some varieties do not come true from seeds.

* Some varieties are difficult or impossible to reproduce from cuttings or other propagation techniques.

* A method to change one tree to another variety.

* A method of using a root system better adapted to a soil or climate and grafting the desired tree to that lower trunk.

* Curiosity – It would be interesting to give it a try and see what happens.

What can be Grafted:

Trees and plants of the same botanical genius and species can usually be grafted even if they are of a different variety. Most varieties of a particular fruit or flowering species are interchangeable and can be grafted. There are exceptions where plants of different genera can be successfully grafted but it is less successful. In summary, plants of different families cannot be successfully grafted.

Grafting Techniques: There are basically two types of grafting techniques: 1- Grafting two parts that are nearly the same size 2- Grafting two parts where one is much larger than the other.

When making a successful graft the important steps are:

1- Preparing the stock and scion – The cuts made in both the stock and scion need to match as close as possible to fit like a puzzle. 2- Cutting the Stock 3- Cutting the Scion 4- Fitting the Stock & Scion – These need to be fitting as close and tighly as possible to form a good bond. 5- Wrapping the Graft – Wrap the graft to keep it from drying out. 6- Waxing – Cover the wrapped area with wax to help in protecting the graft.

Note: Once the graft begins to grow it must be given some attention. During the first season do not prune the branches that grow to give them the chance to really take off.

Note: The best time to graft is in the spring just as growth begins.
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Drying Flowers

If done well, dried foliage can last a very long time. There is a dried laurel Roman head-wreath that is over 2,000 years old at a museum in Britain.

Collecting Flowers to Dry:

Flowers meant for drying can be collected at any time during the growing season. Collect more than is actually needed to account for damage and attempt to choose perfect shapes. Additionally, choose flowers free from insect and disease damage.

Methods for Drying Flowers: There are several ways to dry flowers including the following:

Pressing:

This is the most popular method of preserving flowers. It is accomplished by placing the flower between the pages of a book which is closed and weighted. Flowers dried with this method can be arranged in framed displays.

Air-Drying:

This is the oldest and most simple method. Essentially you just hang and dry the flowers and they slowly become preserved.

Heat Pressing:

With this method you press with a warm iron by placing the flowers between two pieces of waxed paper.

Microwave Drying: This method only takes a few minutes and provides dried flowers that look fresher and more colorful than many other methods. To do this method support material such as silica gel must surround and support the flowers while heating.

Freeze Drying: This is a harder method for the average homeowner but is the most realistic. In this process flowers are placed into a refrigerated chamber below freezing.

Desiccants: Embedding the flowers in a granular material is a very common method. Several materials may be used and include such materials as borax; silica gel; cat litter; oolitic sand; common sand and other.
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Deer Scram

There are many methods people use to chase away deer. They work with varying degrees of success but never are 100% effective (unless you kill the deer). There is a product we have found to be the most effective way ever control and chase away deer. It is called Deer Scram.

Deer Scram is the most cost-effective repellent that keeps deer – and rabbits – away from your valuable plants for up to 45 days with a single application. Deer Scram was custom-designed to stop deer browsing. Deer Scram sends the deer running – no matter the season – even during the winter when deer food is least abundant!

Deer won't get used to the smell! Deer Scram doesn't just scare the deer away with an unpleasant odor like most products. The magic of Deer Scram is that it strikes the fear of death into the deer. Keep deer away and make them afraid to come back! TRAIN deer and rabbits not to return.

Deer Scram's ingredients are all-natural and organic – no chemical and taste treatments that don't work! – and Deer Scram will not harm you, the environment or animals!

No messy and time-consuming mixing! Deer Scram is not applied to foliage. Deer Scram is a granular barrier deer repellant you simply spread around the area where you want deer protection.

Rain and snow safe! Deer Scram is a water-fast deer repellant. Since Deer Scram won't dissolve in water it won’t wash off! Moisture actually enhances Deer Scram’s effectiveness!

The Deer Scram people can be reached at:

www.DeerScram.com
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American Ginseng

American Ginseng is a perennial herb native to forest in the eastern USA. In the past American Ginseng thrived along most of the eastern seaboard and west to Wisconsin. It was over harvested in the 1970’s to the point of being defined as an endangered species.

American Ginseng is similar to Asian Ginseng which has been harvested for centuries. It has been prized in the Orient for its curative properties. It has been reputed to lower blood sugar and cholesterol levels, protect against stress, enhance strength, and promote relaxation.

Other uses for Ginseng includes:

• Toothpaste
• Tea
• Chewing Gum
• Candy
• Many others…

Nepeta 'Walkers Low'

It was first introduced in Europe in 1988 and has become increasingly poplar every year since. Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ has these features:

• Pretty blue-violet flowers
• Attractive grey-green foliage
• Ease of propagation
• Long bloom time
• Pest and disease resistant
• Low maintenance requirements

Additionally, Nepeta ‘Walker’s Low’ is hardy in zones 3-8, grows up to 36 inches tall, does best in full sun but will tolerate shade in hot climates, prefers well drained soil and neutral pH, and is great for attracting butterflies and bees.

Downy Brome

Downy Brome was introduced to the United States through contaminated shipments and has spread throughout the country. It impacts infected areas by crowding out native grasses and creates substantial wildfire hazards.

Downy Brome invades the following habitats:

• Abandoned Farmlands
• Overgrazed Ranges
• Farm & Ranch Buildings
• Railroads
• Roadsides

Germination:

In fields Downy Brome seeds germinate in fall, winter, and spring. Most of the seeds will germinate within one year of maturation. Downy Brome evolved in rangelands therefore is adapted to that type of environment. As a result, the seed germinates easily on the soil surface and less affectively when buried.

Control: The three types of controls for Downy Brome are:

• Biological Controls
• Mechanical Controls
• Chemical Controls

Apple Maggots

Damaged frit eventually becomes soft and rotten and thus cannot be used. After 20-30 days feeding in the fruit the maggots drop to the ground where they bury themselves into the soil. After this they change into the pupal stage where they then spend the rest of the winter. Apple Maggots emerge as adults mid summer to early fall where the process then starts all over again.

Controlling:

Since adult maggot flies emerge for a long period of time it is important to start using insecticides about mid summer. Apples affected by apple maggots are unusable so getting control of them is vital. There are various forms of insecticide control both chemical and non-toxic. Contact your local County Extension Agent or local Master Gardener to get advice on what is working best in your particular region.

Leaf Blight

• Wilting of seedlings
• Yellowing & drying of leaves
• Reduced yield

The symptoms you’ll notice when your plants are being affected by leaf blight are:

Why Leaf Blight Occurs:

Warm temperatures, high humidity, rain and deep water favor leaf blight. Wetland areas can also encourage the presence of the disease. Severe winds and storms can cause wounds to make a plant vulnerable as well as over fertilization. If you suspect bacterial leaf blight it is a good ideas to contact a local Master Gardener or County Extension Agent to get advice related to your specific region.

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