What's in this Issue:

#2 Lynne's Backyard Gardening Tips

#3 New Gardening Product of-the-Month

#4 Odd & Strange Gardening News

#5 Great Plant of the Month

#6 Invasive Plant of-the-Month

#7 Garden Pest of-the-Month

#8 Plant Disease

#9 Feedback - Anonymous

Worm Composting

• Controlled Temperature

• Controlled Moisture Content

• Controlled Aeration

• Proper pH levels

• Food

TEMPERATURE: Even though redworms can a wide range of temperatures the best range is between 55 and 77 degrees F. Temperature bedding of 84 degrees and greater is harmful and sometimes fatal to redworm popualations. NOTE: The bedding temperature is the key because it is usually lower than the outside air.

MOISTURE: Since worms breathe through their skin, the conditions must be moist for this to happen efficiently.

AERATION: Air circulation must be good because worms produce carbon dioxide. Think in terms of good air circulation in and around the worm box.

pH LEVELS: Redworms can tolerate pH levels of 4.2 to 8.0 or higher. The very best range however is around 7.0 and can be achieved by mixing lime (calcium carbonate ) with the bedding material to maintain favorable levels. Another method is to use pulverized egg shells. NOTE: If you use the wrong kind of limestone it will kill your worms. Use regular limestone… if you use hydrated lime will kill your worms.

FOOD: Most kitchen waste or table scraps are great. NOTE: Use of meat or dairy products could attract mice or rats so they are not recommended.
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Winterizing Water Features

Fountains: If small enough, store your fountain indoors. If too large, your main goal is to avoid allowing water to remain or collect because it can cause cracking when it freezes. Once emptying those of water cover them somehow to protect. If possible, remove the pump and statue part of the fountain and take that indoors for the winter.

Birdbaths: Turn the bowl upside-down on the pedestal to prevent water from collecting and freezing. Or purchase a birdbath heater from a local wild bird-feeding store to encourage year round use for the birds.

Statuary: Most statues can remain outside during the winter. You can however usually extend the life of your statue by either storing it inside or covering it with plastic.

Planters: Make sure they are drained of water, turned over, or covered to prevent cracking (or store indoors for the winter).

Just remember… in the winter Water is your enemy. If there is water somewhere in your garden features it will expand and contract as the temperatures change and cause cracks.
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Dual-Purpose Rake

The short teeth are used for breaking up hard packed clay, while the long teeth are for wet clay and general raking.

The Dual-Purpose Rake comes with either a 24" or 36" head and sturdy wrap-around braces. Its 66" powder-coated aluminum handle with 6" non-slip vinyl grip provides for extra comfort.

You can Google Dual-Purpose Rake or go to the website below to search and find. http://www.rittenhouse.ca
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Puncture Vine

Spiny fruits develop in the leaf axils, each fruit splitting into five seed-bearing sections (burs) called carpels. Since the fruit splits into indehiscent, seed-bearing sections, it is technically referred to as a schizocarp.

The spines of each section are arranged so that one is always facing upward, like the medieval weapon called a caltrop. The spiny, seed-bearing burs readily penetrate shoes, clothing and skin, as well as bicycle tires. When the burs stick into shoes, tires, animals and other moving objects, they are dispersed into new areas where new populations can establish. Viable seeds can also lie dormant in soil for up to 20 years.
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Ornamental Cabbage

As would be expected, Ornamental Cabbage and Kale are both edible, but they are usually used for decorative purposes because of their wonderful versatility in the home landscape. The other members of this family of plants are much more tasty and economical as food crops.

Ornamental Cabbages and Kales are used in the landscape for their remarkable foliage. They develop large rosettes of colorful and decorative leaves variegated with cream, rose, pink, and purple. They make wonderful mass plantings, mixed or single container plantings, and edgings.

Another great feature of these plants is that their color becomes more intense after the first few hard frosts. In the more temperate areas, they will retain their color all the way until spring. Some gardeners in the colder areas dig the plants and use them as very decorative houseplants through the holiday season.

Inside, they require bright light and moist soil. Outside, they prefer full sun, as they will grow leggy and become unattractive if situated in an area that is too shady. Plant in fall or early spring, and prepare the bed well, as you would for any other vegetable crop, adding a balanced fertilizer at planting time.
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Musk Mallow

Musk mallow was originally introduced as an ornamental from its native Europe into North America where it was widely planted in perennial flower gardens. However, it escaped cultivation and became a weedy pest throughout much of northeastern and northwestern United States and adjacent areas in Canada. It is encountered in old gardens, dry grassy fields, waste places, roadsides, and railroads. It grows especially well on lime-rich soils.

Musk mallow is a perennial with an upright stem that can grow 3½ feet tall and large pink flowers that have 5 petals and appear in clusters at the end of each stem or individually on long stalks attached to stem nodes.
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Flea Beetles

When populations are high, flea beetles can quickly defoliate and kill entire plants. They feed most on hot sunny days and attack a wide variety of plants including beans, cabbage, corn, eggplant, potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, and most seedlings. NOTE: Flea beetles transmit viral and bacterial diseases.

Flea beetles spend the winter in the adult stage, hidden under leaves, dirt clods or in other protected sites. They typically begin to become active during warm days in mid-spring but may straggle out over several weeks. Many flea beetles are strong fliers and seek out emerging host plants, which they locate by chemical cues the plants produce. The adults feed for several weeks. Soon the females intersperse feeding with some egg laying. They lay eggs in soil cracks around the base of the plants. The minute, worm-like larvae then move to feed on small roots and root hairs.

There are ways to rid yourself of flea beetles but if you choose chemical then be careful to strictly follow the instructions. It is also a good idea to contact your local Master Gardener or County Extension Agent for advice in these matters.
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Diplodia Blight of Pines

Diplodia pinea kills current-year shoots, major branches, and ultimately entire trees. The effects of this disease are most severe in landscape, windbreak, and park plantings. Symptoms are brown, stunted new shoots with short, brown needles.

The fungus commonly attacks mature trees that have been under stress from drought, root restriction or other planting site problems. It can also be a problem in young, rapidly growing nursery or Christmas tree plantings.

Diplodia blight disease is most commonly seen on Austrian and black pines and some of the other two-and three-needle pines such as red pine, Mugho pine and Scots pine. It is found more uncommonly on white pine, spruces and other evergreens.

Control:

1- Trees should be kept in good vigor with regular maintenance, deep watering during droughts, fertilizing, control of insects and vertical mulching to open up the soil in the root zone.

2- Remove previously blighted shoots.

3- Do not shear or prune infected trees during wet weather, as spores released at this time may be carried from tree to tree on pruning tools.

4- This disease can be partially controlled with fungicides.
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