Orchids

The orchid has been a symbol of luxury, beauty an love for many centuries. The Chinese called orchids the plant of the king’s fragrance. The Greeks thought the orchid to provide virility.

Fortunately, orchids are now easy to cultivate and far less expensive than the thousands of dollars years ago. Orchids are actually quite easy to grow and maintain just by having the right information on their growing needs.

Orchid Info:

* Orchids are the largest and most varied family of flowering plants in the world.

* It is assumed by some that because orchids grow up in trees that they are parasites like mistletoe. This is not so, they only use the tree branches for support and take no nutrients from their host.

* There are around 33,000 different species of orchids in existence and some 200,000 plus hybrids registered.

* They survived where dinosaurs went extinct and expanded to every corner of the world except Antarctica. They did this by adapting to living in trees, rocks, cliffs, on the ground, in the mountains, tropical rainforest, bogs, and elsewhere.

Orchid Societies:

• American Orchid Society
• World Orchid Conference
• Honolulu Orchid Society
• South Florida Orchid Society
• and Others…

Free Newsletter

We will gaurd your Email with great care and NEVER send spam or sell your information.

Location: When indoors, choose a southerly or easterly facing window. It is a good idea to have a curtain to control light as the seasons change.

You can move your orchids outdoors in the summer if desired. You’ll need to be careful and introduce them gradually for a few weeks. Be aware of the temperatures, amount of direct sunlight, and which type of orchid you have. Various orchids require different conditions.

Watering: Water your orchids about once per week. Allow water to run through the porous soil material and be careful not to allow the roots to become submerged in the water. Yes, you can over-water orchids and it will kill them. One of the conditions caused by over-watering is known as root-rot.

What Container to Grow in: You can grow your orchids on a tray filled with pebbles, marbles or similar. This allows you to keep water just below the roots and attains a constant level of humidity that orchids need.

Fertilizing: Orchids respond well to fertilizing because the growing medium used to pot them is lacking nutrients. In general, once per month use a water soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or a specialized orchid fertilizer with a 30-10-10 ratio. Note: Different types of orchids will need various ratios of fertilizers.

Temperatures for Orchids: This varies according to the specific culture of orchids. Some are more tolerant to heat while others can handle colder temperatures better. You need to match the temperature needs to the specific orchid genus.

Orchid Reproduction:

Orchids are very versatile when it comes to reproduction. They are also individually selective and have adapted themselves to use a variety of pollinators. One neat example is the Bee Orchid. Male bees are attracted to the orchid because it mimics a receptive female. The male bee advances and after a frustrating attempt the male bee leaves the flower and becomes an unwitting carrier of the pollen.

Some orchids provide a landing platform for the unwitting pollinator to use. When the pollinator lands for a rest or meal, they fly off with pollen stuck to them and ready to be brushed on the next orchid that gets landed upon.

Other orchids are stealth in their pollination methods. The slipper orchid is a good example of this. It attracts an insect by scent to the edge of its pouch. The insect slips down top the bottom of the pouch and has to pass through a doorway loaded with pollen to escape and move on to another slipper orchid for pollination.

Orchids do not rely upon insects alone to pollinate themselves. The also use the services of hummingbirds, small animals, bats, and the wind for a continuation of their lifecycles.

Orchids can produce millions of tiny seeds. One pod can contain as many as 4 million of these tiny seeds. Because the seeds are so small, they do not contain the natural reservoir of food that most other plants seeds do. For this reason, it’s a good thing for orchids they do produce so many seeds to guarantee the next generations.

Pest affecting Orchids:

Orchids are not generally bothered by all the same pest as our normal garden flowers. Following are some pest to be aware of:

Slugs – This is an outdoor problem. These nighttime assassins can tear up your orchids. Solution: Sprinkle at regular intervals with a “slug liquid” marketed to dispose of these pest.

Weevils – If you have these you’ll notice sudden holes in your orchid’s leaves or chunks missing from around the edges. Solution: There are solutions specific to controlling weevils. You’ll spray the formula every 5 days to get rid of the weevils and their eggs.

Scale – There are 2 types of scale you could encounter when growing orchids:

First – This one attacks Phaleanopsis orchids in particular and can be viewed by looking at the underside of the leaves (small hard brown creatures). Solution: You can either wipe them off with a cloth soaked in methylated spirits or use a systemic insecticide. Systemic insecticides act by being absorbed into the plant tissue and thereby making the plant poisonous to it’s attacker.

Second – This one had a taste for Cattleya’s and their cousins and is called “Boisduval Scale”. If your orchids are being attacked by this pest you’ll notice flat, round scales on the underside of the plants leaves. These must be eradicated fast or it will take over your orchids and kill them. Solution: You will need to combine an insecticide and fungicide together. This will cover your orchids with a white dust but will save the plant.

Mealybugs – These will usually appear as a cotton wool ball around the leaf axils or inside the sheaths of new shoots. Solution: Use the same type of insecticide / fungicide mix mentioned for Scale. If localized you could wipe them off with methylated spirits.

Thrips – Greenfly – Blackfly – Spider Mites: these can all gain a foothold. Solution: Spraying is effective if they are bad, wiping the individual leaves if the problem is localized.</p>

Diseases affecting Orchids:

Some of the disease problems affecting orchids are: Leaf rot, Mildew, Botrytis, and many additional Pathogens. Solution: By keeping good air movement, and making sure the leaves are fairly dry at night, most fungal problems will not be a factor. If you do have an issue, make sure there is good air flow, dry leaves at night, and add a fungal spray. With fungal sprays consult the contents directions for save and correct usage.

*** POPULAR ORCHID CULTURES ***

CATTLEYAS CULTURE:

These are one of the more commonly grown orchid varieties and they are very colorful.

Potting:

Seedling Cattleyas should be planted in fine-grade potting material with older Cattleyas being potted in medium grade potting material. Select a pot that will allow room for 2-3 years growth. Place a small cone of potting material in the bottom of the pot, cut off any rotten roots, and spread the firm - live roots over the cone. Then fill the pot with your medium by working it into the roots and packing slightly.

Water:

Water needs to be applied both in the pot and in the air as humidity. The age of the Cattleya will determine how much water the get. Seedlings need more constant water while mature plants need to dry out somewhat between watering.

A good way to determine if a mature Cattleya needs water is to compare the weight of a dry pot of the same size & type of medium to the one with your orchid. If it is noticeably heavier you know there is still water in the pot. Note: Use warmer water (above 50 degree F.) and try to avoid soft water.

Humidity & Airflow:

Cattleyas need humidity levels to be between 50-80 percent. There are various ways to achieve this. One good method is to put the orchids on top of pebbles and filling the water just below those stones. This will put off a constant humidity for your orchids. Misting can also help if the climate you are in is extra dry.

Orchids need airflow to keep them healthy! Air needs to always be moving around your orchids to keep them healthy and prevent bacterial and fungal diseases.

Light:

Light is important for any type of flower whether it’s a perennial or your orchids. They need bright light for part of the day (30-50 percent) but no direct sunlight in the middle of the day.

Temperature:

Cattleyas require temperatures to be in the range of 55 to 85 degrees. Day Temperatures of 70-85 degrees and Night Temperatures of 55-60 degrees. Note: It is best to keep the total temperature fluctuation to 20 degrees. Also, higher temperatures can be tolerated of up to 95 degrees if there is extra: air circulation, humidity, and plenty of shade.

Fertilizer:

Cattleyas need fertilizer on a regular basis. A high nitrogen formula of 30-10-10 solution is good. To give your orchids a boost to produce flowers you can occasionally add a 10-30-20 formulation. Active Growth plants need fertilizer every 2 weeks and when inactive 1 time per month is good.

VANDA CULTURE:

Potting:

Vandas do best with a coarse grade of potting material. This can include tree fern or coarse bark and can be mixed with a general orchid mix as well. Note: Vandas become leggy as they get larger. Roots will develop on the upper portion of the orchid, you can remove the upper half and repot the orchid. The lower portion will generally develop offshoots and roots and can also be repotted as well.

Water:

Vandas do not like to be dry or wet for extended periods. In the summer heat Vandas do need to be watered frequently (misting can be a good solution).

Humidity & Airflow:

Like Cattleyas, Vandas need plenty of humidity. You can use the method of putting stones in a container and filling with water up to the stones but not over.

Light & Shade:

Vandas need lots of light with some varieties of Vandas adapting to full sun. Know your orchid however, other varieties of Vandas need protection from the sun in the midday. Note: Vandas do not do well with artificial lighting because it is not intense enough for the most successful blooming. A good southern exposure is great for Vandas.

Temperature:

Vandas like warm weather with temperatures of between 65 to 95 degrees. Nighttime Temperatures should be from 60 to 65 degrees.

Fertilizer:

Vandas like to be fertilized during spring and summer. A fertilizer mix of 18-18-18 will produce good results.

Free Newsletter

We will gaurd your Email with great care and NEVER send spam or sell your information.

Potting:

With these orchids it’s good to pot as new growth begins in the spring or fall. Plan for at least 1-2 years of growth when potting because they like to be pot bound. The potting medium for this orchid should be fine with excellent drainage capabilities.

One way to create a perfect potting medium for this orchid is to put rocks, crock shards, or other lumpy material in the bottom 1/3 of the entire pot so there is great drainage. Like other orchids, you spread the roots over a cone of potting material and fill around the roots with light pressure.

Water:

This ties in with the potting because if you don’t pot your orchids correctly then water drainage will be an issue. They need plenty of water and a way to judge this is that when the medium just starts to dry you water again. You can judge the weight of the pot as well to determine if water is needed.

Humidity & Airflow:

The ideal level needed for these orchids is 40-80 humidity. You can accomplish this by putting pebbles, marbles or the like at the bottom of a pan and then filling water around the pebbles. As the water evaporates your orchid will get humidity.

Light:

Light levels can be bright but this orchid does not need extended periods of direct sun. In general, an east window or shaded south window is good. Note: A west window is probably too warm in most regions.

Temperature:

This type of orchid is more cold tolerant than others. Daytime Temperatures should be between 75-80 degrees. You should try for Nighttime Temperatures in the range of 55-58 degrees. Note: One type (Odontoglossums) actually thrives at nighttime temperatures of 50-55 degrees.

Fertilizer:

Like all orchids they like to be fertilized. A twice per month application of 30-10-10 fertilizer formulation is good for orchids potted in bark mediums, while a 20-20-20 is good with alternate mediums. To get blooms going you may try a 10-30-20 formulation because it has high phosphorus and is known as a bloom booster.

PAPHIOPEDILUM CULTURE (Slipper Orchids):

These are really neat orchids. They are from the jungles of the Far East and Indonesia. They typically grow in trees, pockets in cliffs, and on the forest floor in the humus or other material.

Don’t be afraid, they are easy to grow at home under proper conditions with artificial lighting or very low levels of sun.

Potting:

They like potting materials that are fine to medium grade. This can consist of fir bark with additives like perlite, peat moss, sphagnum, coarse sand, and other like materials. The reason for these materials is that moisture retention combined with excellent drainage is needed.

Place in the pot by spreading the roots over a small amount of medium in the bottom of the pot and fill around the roots. Make sure the roots are buried at least ½ inch deep in the center of the pot.

Water:

This type of orchid stores water in its leaves, instead of their roots like others. As a result, water needs to be available at the plant’s roots constantly. These orchids need a moist medium but not soggy.

Humidity & Airflow:

These orchids need humidity levels to be around 40 to 50 percent. This is lower than many orchids but can be set up the same way as with other orchids in your home. Do this by putting them on trays of pebbles with water filled just to the top of the pebbles.

Light:

Since these orchids like shady conditions, they are easy to grow with less sun light. They do like bright light, jut very little direct sun exposure. You could use artificial lighting or put them in an eastern or western facing window.

Temperature:

There are two primary groups of paphs. The ones that like warmer temperatures and the ones that like cooler temperatures. If you shoot for a middle of the road temperature range all of these orchids can be grown under the same conditions with good results. It’s when you go to the extreme temperature end for either plant that specifics are more important.

Warm-Growing Paphs: Daytime Temperatures of 75-85 degrees is best. Nighttime Temperatures of 60-65 degrees is best.

Cool-Growing Paphs: Daytime Temperatures of 75-80 degrees is good with Nighttime Temperatures of 50-60 degrees.

The Extremes: These plants are temperature hardy and can stand night temperatures of 40 degrees and day temperatures of up to 95 degrees if necessary. The ideal growth of the orchid flowers will be affected y these extremes however.

Fertilizer:

Like all orchids, fertilizers can be applied on a regular basis (Be careful not to burn the roots). Fertilizer solutions of 30-10-10 with high nitrogen are recommended for this orchid especially when potted in fir bark mix. Note: Since this orchids roots can burn easily, it is important to flush excess fertilizer off once per month with clear water.

DENDROBIUM CULTURE:

This genus of orchids is very diverse and need a variety of conditions to do well. Flowers for these orchids can last 1 day or several weeks depending on the particular type of orchid genus in this culture. Several of these orchids go through a growth and a rest phase in the coarse of the year and need specific amounts of water and temperatures during these periods.

Potting:

Generally, pot in medium grade materials that will allow for proper drainage. Spread the roots over the medium and fill in around the roots with light packing pressure.

Water:

Water these orchids just as the medium is becoming dry. You can tell by looking or you can hold the pot to see if it weighs less. Note: It is important to know that some types in this orchid culture need severe drying while in the resting phase.

Humidity & Airflow:

Humidity generally for these orchids is best between 40 to 60 percent. You can put the pot on top of a tray containing pebbles lightly filled with water. As the water evaporates good humidity levels are created for the orchids.

Light:

These orchids like very strong lighting (even more important when growth is maturing). In your home provide bright light but only some sun. You can place them in your windows at the east, western, or a shaded southern facing window.

Temperature:

Since this genus varies greatly, temperatures vary for specific plants. Look at the individual orchid in this culture and see what the exact temperature preferences are. Generally, day Temperatures are in the range of 65-95 degrees, and night temperatures will be in the range of 45-60 degrees.

Fertilizer:

Apply a 30-10-10 fertilizer mix on a fairly regular basis (you can reduce fertilizing once growth has completed). As with other orchid types, you can use a bloom booster to encourage flowering.

MASDEVALLIA CULTURE:

This genus has a need for cool and misty conditions and is ideal for coastal climates. There are around 350 species within this orchid genus and they are known for their striking size and colors.

Potting:

Use a fine grade potting mix such as fine fir bark, tree fern fiber or sphagnum. These orchids need to be repotted fairly frequently (every 1-2 years) to keep the soil from decomposing. The bottom 1/3 of the pot should be filled with rocks, marbles, broken up crock, etc to provide good drainage. Spread this orchid’s roots over a cone of potting soil, place the orchid’s roots over the cone, and fill in the material around. Pat the material around the roots with light pressure to hold in place.

Water:

These orchids have very little water storage tissue so watering them is critical. Constantly moist is good for their roots if drainage is adequate. To water wait just about when the roots are close to dry. You can judge this by the weight of the pot and visually as well.

Humidity & Airflow:

The ideal humidity range for these orchids is in the 60-80 percent range. This is relatively high humidity and can be created by automatic misters as well as by placing the pot on top of a tray of pebbles with water filled to the pebbles. When the water evaporates it gives off humidity.

Light:

This group of orchids require much lower light levels than others. They are nearly at the same light level requirement as a fern (slightly higher). These orchids grow well under four tube fluorescent lights. They will also do alright outside in the summer if they are kept in the shade.

Temperature:

This orchid needs cooler temperatures and will die if kept at higher temperatures for long periods. Daytime Temperatures of 60-75 degrees and Nighttime Temperatures of 50-55 degrees are best.

Fertilizer:

These orchids generally do best with fertilizer mixes of 30-10-10 2 times per month when based in a bark medium. If potted in another medium then a 20-20-20 mix is good. To boost flowering you may use a 10-30-20 bloom booster formula to encourage growth.

CYMBIDIUM CULTURE:

These orchids are semi-terrestrial plants.

Potting:

They should be potted in fir bark or peat moss.

Water:

Give enough water to keep them moist in the summer while n the winter slightly less (just enough to keep the their leaves from drying). You can spray them with a misting.

Humidity & Airflow:

They do need humidity levels that are sufficiently achieved by placing the pots on top of a tray filled with pebbles and slight amount of water to evaporate.

Light:

These orchids like a strong summer sun and an indirect but bright light in the winter.

Temperature:

They like cooler temperatures than many orchids to encourage flowering. Their temperature tolerance range is higher than most with a Day Temperatures of 65-85 degrees and Nighttime Temperatures of 45-60 degrees.

Fertilizer:

Potting medium has very little in the way of nutrition so fertilizing is very important as is with all orchids. A 30-10-10 mix 1 time per week in the summer is good and a bloom booster in the fall of 10-30-20 is recommended for flowering.