Planting Trees
Choosing the correct tree for your situation is the first step. Look at the area you want to plant your tree and consider these aspects:
* How large of a tree do you ultimately want
* What is the soil like in regard to soil pH and drainage?
* How much sunlight is there for the tree especially when smaller if next to larger trees?
* What climate zone do you live in?
* Do you want an evergreen to provide privacy or not?
* How fast do you ant your tree to grow?
* Do you want to plant flowers or other plants in the future around or nearby? The reason for this question is to determine the amount of shade produced.
An experienced nurseryman can help you narrow your choices down and give you hints on planting that tree in your particular region.
The very best time to plant a tree is during its dormant season which is usually early spring before bud break or in the fall after leaves have dropped. NOTE: Trees that have been properly cared for in garden centers or a nursery can be planted any time during the growing season but extra care will be needed.
The most common mistake when planting a tree is to dig a hole that is either too deep or too narrow. Too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly anchor the tree.
As a rule, trees should be transplanted no deeper than the soil in which they were originally grown. The width of the hole should be at least 3 times the diameter of the root ball or container or the spread of the roots in the case of bare root trees. This will provide the tree with enough worked earth for its root structure to establish itself.
When digging in poorly drained clay soil, it is important to avoid ‘glazing’. Glazing occurs when the sides and bottom of a hole become smoothed forming a barrier, through which water has difficulty passing. To break up the glaze, use a fork to work the bottom and drag the points along the sides of the completed hole. Also, raising the bottom of the hole slightly higher than the surrounding area. This allows water to disperse, reducing the possibility of water pooling in the planting zone.
Your final step is to mulch. Add two to four inches around the base of the tree, but not against the trunk. Make a doughnut, not a mound. Mounding mulch around the trunk and covering the root flare inhibits gas exchange and can cause disease and decay of the living bark at the base of the tree.
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